TB6560 Configuration for CO2 laser - firing trigger

[buildsomething]

I just received my new 3 axis controller board TB6560 and have got the stepper motors and limits switches working.

The CO2 laser that I have is some no name Chinese 40W that is similar if not identical to the ones here and also using the Moshidraw board.

The question that needs to be answered to trigger the laser is why I should be using the relay on the board? If the Z direction changes from 5v to 0 then why can't I just drive the laser from that port directly? Why is the relay used? The circuit provided by Marco is compeletly in series. I don't see the relay changing state when the Z direction changes....it just stays on. I am pretty sure that I have configured MACH 3 as per instructions, but I may be wrong.

Any suggestions before I start wiring up the rest of the board.
Richard

[raphael150]

I have the same doubt...

You could post the motor and limits pictures of your machine.
Raphael

[Tech_Marco]

OMG,... the relay, as I mentioned, is a "Safety guard". I also mentioned that you don't have to but it's dangerous without it. Do you know that if you hit Up and Dn arrow key on the keyboard, or if you forgot to change the stage of the Z direction, the laser FIRE~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~!

But, with the relay is employed, fire can only happen if the X,Y is moving and Z is changing stage from + to - or from - to +, it serves as a layer of security lock to avoid fire accidentialy. It's kind of protecting kids or other people around the machine who always curious this button or that button is.

You need to enable 'Relay' on Mach3 setup.

Now you guys own me another lunch

Marco

[Tech_Marco]

See the video I made with the TB8435 (older version) on the Solo K40

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-nv1u80qgM4

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wji0rpHaygc

[Tech_Marco]

I'm attaching two sample of G-code for testing pupose
It's a complex wheel and a spiral
It's good to use it to test your TB6560/K40

[buildsomething]

I can get everything to work except firing the laser.
I can fire the laser manually, I can turn on the laser by setting different swithes in MACH 3 but it will NOT work if I follow the directions given. I must be doing something wrong or the board is faulty.

I have checked the wiring over and over as well as the recommended switch settings with no success.

Can anyone help....?

Richard

[Tech_Marco]

It's too earlier to say the board is defective. In fact, if you understand Mach3, you don't even need to use the board for fireing the laser. All it need is DIR signal from Z! In fact, what you need is - patience. The first time when I tried this 3 axis board, I even didn't know what is Mach3 and I really didn't know how to drive a 3 axis card by Mach3. Moreover, I didn't understand G-code either. But I taught myself a little by little with logical thinking, do it step by step and asked why and why not. All I learned was from "test and try".

On Mach3, the most confusing part is the Enable Low or Enable High. It really mess things up easily. Again, do test and try to understand it. When I tried PWM controlling on Mach3, I spend 4~5 nights just by trying each 'check box' on Mach3.

By the way if you know Mach3 well, then you know that for a 3 axis or 4 axis board, the X,Y,Z,A really means nothing as you can assign the pin# and port to each axis. So, if you want to know if the board is defecive, well it's simple to get the answer: just swap X or Y axis with the Z and test again if the X-Y moving correctly. If it works ,then there is nothing wrong with the board, agreed ? Remember, a 3 axis board is equvilant to three 1-axis board that being put together, then label X,Y,Z... But can't I say " Y,Z,U,X. Yes or no, it depends on the Mach3 setup.

Remember what I said, to simulate the FIRE, you use the DIR signal from Z axis as it change polarity +/- during the up and down movement. When it's down (CNC machine), it send out a pulse signal (I assume +) and use it to trigger the power supply. When the Z withdraw, the + become "0V" and it shutdown the FIRE.

How to test whether the DIR is working. Simple, use a scope or a DVM (digital volt meter) to check the voltage level appear to a specific pin which I believe is #7, the DIR of Z (note: in Mach3, #2,#3 is for X, #4,#5 for Y, #6,#7 for Z in general). All these pin are acutally referring to the pins of the parallel port on the computer. The # 7 is actually the pin#7 on the parallel port. So, if you're not using the I/O from the board, you still can test the FIRE by getting signal from pin#7 from the pareallel port. I did that and it worked the same. But why would I want to use the I/O instead. The resson is: an isolation protection to avoid direct contact to the PC. My board used high speed optical coupling IC while those cheap board on eBay are using low speed. That made the difference vs the performance.

If you have a scope, you can see better and make your life easlier. But a DVM is OK

To test whether the relay is working or not, it is more simpler by using your ear. When it's energized, you should hear the 'click' sound when it latched. Things you need to be paying attention: BIOS setting on PC must be have the parallel port enabled. Parallel cable must be Bi-directional but not the dump-modem cable (serial cable 4 wires). Check all pins by using a ohm meter. Makie sure #1 to #1... #25 to #25 pair to pair.

If you can get the signal from the DIR (Z), the 5V TTL should be good enough to drive the laser power supply by connecting it to the level high port (TH). Make sure your laser power supply is enable with "Water protection" ground. Once a positive + signal sent to the TH, it should fire

If you still can't get it work, may be it's time to consider the DSP card.


Marco

[Tech_Marco]

I spent 5 hrs last night by doing 100times tesing but I couldn't get it work

I could get the motor and relay working properly but I couldn't get signal from PIN14 (not PIN7). But I'll try PIN7 today anyway. The board that I used to test is TA8435H not TB6560. But everything should work the same though. Setup on Mach3 also identical.

Will update you folks today

Marco

[Tech_Marco]

A stupid mistake cost me 5 hrs sleeping time last night
Now, it works like a champ!

TA8435 and TB6560 made no difference.
Pin7 port was replaced by Pin14 as I have I/O port for Pin1,Pin14,Pin16, and Pin17. You can do Pin7 but you need do soldering a wire to that.


Marco

[Tech_Marco]

See youtube. When I said it worked, then it would work !

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rNpmk52qsDY

[buildsomething]

Hi there Marco.

I just gave it a try and it worked perfectly. I was able to map pin #7 to pin #14 on the output port and reset the conditions in MACH as outlined in your response.

Now all I have to do is put it all back inside the box and start burning stuff.....

Once I get mine up and running I will send you a video showing the card driving and cutting stuff. For my next machine I will seriously consider buying the new DSP board.

Thanks again for all your help Marco.

Sincerely

Richard

[raphael150]

Hello Marco,
If I buy that 2 axis TB6560 card will it work in my DC-K40IV machine? Or do I have to buy the 3 axis card to use the Z axis to laser firing?
If I buy a card will you give me support to setup it?
I´m just waiting this asnwer to make the payment.
Regards
Raphael

[Tech_Marco]

I didn't try 2-axis but I think it should work if you can get the pin#14. Set up for 2axis,3axis,4axis on Mach3 are the pretty much the same. However, I'm running of man power to do the test on those board in the mean time. Please stick with 3 axis. Also, necessary info to make the conversion can be found on this site and setting for Mach3 are posted on my manual. Additional setting exclusively for the Laser can be found from the screen shot on this post. I can help for general question only but not down from the scratch. You got to know how to setup switches, setup on Mach3, and basic electronics.


Marco

[secatur]

OK Marco, I did all this ! Religiously followed your posted screens ! I still can't get the pin 14 output to cycle ! Shows 5.23 v and goes to 0v if I toggle the hi/lo box...but won't operate with machine !

Difference between 2 and 3 axis board?

Also, please, where is the "relay" toggle in Mach 3 configs ???

When I finally get this all sorted, I am going to do a step by step K40 conversion post...INCLUDING WIRING DIAGRAMS ! for all of the other poor K4 bunnies (like me !) out there !
Cheers,

[Tech_Marco]

Did you use my 3-axis board?
Also, did you use my sample code?
If you can toggle it for 5V and 0V but got nothing when machine is running. Chance is that you're not using my sample code where "Z" value was set. If you don't have "Z" setup right, there is no "Z" action, means that there is no "fire" action.

If you're using my board, the pin17 is relay. I have enable "Output1" for pin17. If you have my board and my sample code. You need to follow "exact" what I posted those screen shot. Don't oversight or miss "Any" step as each setting is important. That's why it cost me days and days and nights and nights to make it work.

Marco