Conversion snag

[jeckardt]

I have hit a minor snag in the conversion. After mounting the new limit switches on the x-y bed, the x-y bed no longer slips into the case -- the new y-axis switch hits against the bottom of the tube chamber as the bed is slipped in at an angle over the front lip. It was a very tight fit getting it out, so I should have anticipated this.

Now it looks like I can unbolt the tube chamber and lift that out to give room to get the bed in, but a step that major I would have expected in the update instructions -- but there wasn't any mention at all of re-inserting the xy-bed in the instructions. Makes me wonder if either 1) I did something wrong, or 2) I'm missing something incredibly obvious. Just wanted to ask opinions of others that have done this before I start pulling this thing apart any further.

And while I'm at it, is there any reason/advantage to maybe cutting back the intruding fume exhaust "nozzle" inside the cabinet a bit, or is it best to leave that as-is. [Now wishing I had taken some better pictures of the inside of the cutter before I started ripping it apart. ).

Thanks,
Joe

[waltfl]

hi joe
I am not sure I understand your problem with the bed a picture would help.
for your exhaust nozzle there is no problem with cutting this back about 1 inch if you got a good exhaust fan like a 550CFM 6 inch inline hydro phone fan.
greetings
waltfl

I have hit a minor snag in the conversion. After mounting the new limit switches on the x-y bed, the x-y bed no longer slips into the case -- the new y-axis switch hits against the bottom of the tube chamber as the bed is slipped in at an angle over the front lip. It was a very tight fit getting it out, so I should have anticipated this.

Now it looks like I can unbolt the tube chamber and lift that out to give room to get the bed in, but a step that major I would have expected in the update instructions -- but there wasn't any mention at all of re-inserting the xy-bed in the instructions. Makes me wonder if either 1) I did something wrong, or 2) I'm missing something incredibly obvious. Just wanted to ask opinions of others that have done this before I start pulling this thing apart any further.

And while I'm at it, is there any reason/advantage to maybe cutting back the intruding fume exhaust "nozzle" inside the cabinet a bit, or is it best to leave that as-is. [Now wishing I had taken some better pictures of the inside of the cutter before I started ripping it apart. ).

Thanks,
Joe

[NickWL]

I've been wanting to cut back my K40 exhaust 'nozzle' ever since eI got it - just can't think of a way that won't risk vibrating the laser tube dangerously. (other than removing the tube with all the attendant hassles!)
How are you planning to cut it?
Nick

[jeckardt]

I am not sure I understand your problem with the bed a picture would help.
for your exhaust nozzle there is no problem with cutting this back about 1 inch if you got a good exhaust fan like a 550CFM 6 inch inline hydro phone fan.

I'll take a couple of pictures as soon as I can (working late nights at work this week so probably this weekend) and see if I can figure out how to post them here.

How are you planning to cut it?

I'm thinking an Air Nibbler might do the trick. Or, if I have room, maybe an Air Die Grinder. I think the latter will be less jarring to the rest of the unit, but not sure if there's enough clearance for the tool. But NOW is the time to do it if I'm going to since the gantry is already out.

[acuralegendz]

I removed a chunk of mine with this http://www.harborfreight.com/4-12-in-43 ... OCJ9%0D%0A
I was in the middle of the upgrade and everything was removed from inside the gantry part. It worked great. It left some sharp edges that i then taped with painters tape so I didn't cut my self or anything near it.

[jeckardt]

Okay, here are a couple photos of my situation:

I've slid the gantry back into the case. At this point the back edge is up on top of the "standoffs" that it'll bolt to, and the front edge is resting on the front lip of the cabinet. It's in as far as it will go as it is hitting the new limit switch (actually the bolt holding the limit switch) against the edge of the laser tube cage.



This is a close up of what's hitting. The right-most bolt on the limit switch is hitting the bottom of the laser tube cage. Even if I removed that screw, the switch itself would hit.



Once the gantry is in, looks like the switch and its bolts will slide under the laser cage... it's only because the gantry must go in at an angle until it gets past the front lip that is causing the problem.

Theoretically I could unbolt the floor of the laser cage and flex that up a bit to temporarily gain enough extra clearance go get the gantry back in, but I have to think I'm missing something as no one else seems to have had this problem.

Am I doing something wrong? Suggestions?

Thanks,
Joe

[waltfl]

hi there
you need to move the gantry back manually, don't leav it in the front.
greetings
waltfl

Okay, here are a couple photos of my situation:

I've slid the gantry back into the case. At this point the back edge is up on top of the "standoffs" that it'll bolt to, and the front edge is resting on the front lip of the cabinet. It's in as far as it will go as it is hitting the new limit switch (actually the bolt holding the limit switch) against the edge of the laser tube cage.



This is a close up of what's hitting. The right-most bolt on the limit switch is hitting the bottom of the laser tube cage. Even if I removed that screw, the switch itself would hit.



Once the gantry is in, looks like the switch and its bolts will slide under the laser cage... it's only because the gantry must go in at an angle until it gets past the front lip that is causing the problem.

Theoretically I could unbolt the floor of the laser cage and flex that up a bit to temporarily gain enough extra clearance go get the gantry back in, but I have to think I'm missing something as no one else seems to have had this problem.

Am I doing something wrong? Suggestions?

Thanks,
Joe

[jeckardt]

hi there
you need to move the gantry back manually, don't leave it in the front.
greetings
waltfl

Gantry is all the way towards the back at the moment, and completely inside of the case.

Maybe I have the terminology wrong and I confused things... let me try again.

The x-y stage (i.e., the entire subassembly that moves) is slid as far as it'll go into the cabinet until it hits the obstruction (limit switch against edge of laser chamber). This puts it at a ~30deg angle with the back edge on the standoff bracket (where it belongs) as it's sliding in under the laser chamber, and the front edge still resting on the front lip of the cabinet. It needs to go back maybe 0.25" more before the front edge of the x-y stage will clear the front edge of the cabinet and drop down inside flat. Once that happens, then the stage should easily slide in under the laser chamber as it should.

The gantry (moving arm that carries the #2 mirror and the lens holder/mirror) is inside the cabinet, and at this point basically slid back as far as the gantry track will allow. There's plenty of play there -- I could move the gantry forward about 1/3 the stage's travel if needed to get the x-y stage in -- so I know it's not the gantry that's in the way.

I can see that if I could get the x-y stage to drop into the cabinet, then the angles would change enough to allow the limit switch to slide in underneath the laser chamber and all would be well. So it's all a matter of that .25" more movement that I don't seem to have. It's actually the 4-40 screw holding the limit switch down that's hitting, but even if that weren't there I think the switch itself would still hit before the from of the stage could clear the front panel edge.

SO... how do I get that extra .25" movement so the stage will drop into the cabinet?

[Kiwi53]

Hi jeckardt,
You will find that if you lift the exhaust vent up slightly then you be able to slip or manuver
the X-Y stage into position easierly. I found it was sticking like you mentioned an I just
lifted the exhaust vent up some an it almost fall into place. You'll have to use some force
to an a bit of jiggling to get it in, it would be easier to have the mirror removed for
ease of handling an have the X stage as far forward to the front of the machine.
Hope this helps.

Neil

ps: mark the washers on the mirror with a marker pen an also the allui edge, this
will make it easier to re aline the mirror.

[waltfl]

hi
maybe I said it wrong if I said to the back I meant towards you or the front of the cabinet, we always define the back is the back of the Y axis what is actually the front of the cabinet, sorry for the confusion.
greetings
waltfl

hi there
you need to move the gantry back manually, don't leave it in the front.
greetings
waltfl

Gantry is all the way towards the back at the moment, and completely inside of the case.

Maybe I have the terminology wrong and I confused things... let me try again.

The x-y stage (i.e., the entire subassembly that moves) is slid as far as it'll go into the cabinet until it hits the obstruction (limit switch against edge of laser chamber). This puts it at a ~30deg angle with the back edge on the standoff bracket (where it belongs) as it's sliding in under the laser chamber, and the front edge still resting on the front lip of the cabinet. It needs to go back maybe 0.25" more before the front edge of the x-y stage will clear the front edge of the cabinet and drop down inside flat. Once that happens, then the stage should easily slide in under the laser chamber as it should.

The gantry (moving arm that carries the #2 mirror and the lens holder/mirror) is inside the cabinet, and at this point basically slid back as far as the gantry track will allow. There's plenty of play there -- I could move the gantry forward about 1/3 the stage's travel if needed to get the x-y stage in -- so I know it's not the gantry that's in the way.

I can see that if I could get the x-y stage to drop into the cabinet, then the angles would change enough to allow the limit switch to slide in underneath the laser chamber and all would be well. So it's all a matter of that .25" more movement that I don't seem to have. It's actually the 4-40 screw holding the limit switch down that's hitting, but even if that weren't there I think the switch itself would still hit before the from of the stage could clear the front panel edge.

SO... how do I get that extra .25" movement so the stage will drop into the cabinet?

[Rob_hoppe]

Just started "conversion" on mine. I use quotes since it's more of a complete redesign and rebuild... First thing to come out was, well, everything! Then out came the dremel. Exhaust fan that came with it it useless, I'm modifying the case to accept 4 boxer 115vac .21 amp fans. So the nozzle had to go. Next step is to cut ports for a removable panel on the rear that will house the outlet, the 10A breaker to replace the glass fuse, air input (3/8NPT) and a duplex outlet to plug in water pump. Everything will be run with switches on the front panel. I am also mounting both limit switches on the x head in place if the original optical switches and raising the tube and entire XY platform 3/8" for a deeper bed. Also going to build a manual z honeycomb table. I bought the new X7 upgrade kit and hope to have it all done before Christmas.

Rob
Orlando, Fl

[Maverick]

I chose a bit of a different approach for the limit switch on the Y axis. After removing the original optical limit and small PCB i let the brackets in place, using them as physical components for my limit switch. Clearance was not an issue after that.