Desoldering laser tube connection?
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Desoldering laser tube connection?
I am in the process of upgrading a 40W cheap Chinese laser with better optics, electronics and hardware.The good Chinese folk who built my 40W machine decided to solder the high voltage supply to the pins on the glass tube. I had read on this forum that this should not be done because it will cause premature failure and gas leakage. However, I need to remove the tube to fit new tube mounts and to better aim the mirrors using a red laser module temporarily fitted to the tube mounts via a dummy glass tube. Can anyone tell me if I should try to desolder the connections? Are there any other options? I was considering cutting the wire just off the pins and then rejoining it with screw type terminals. Pic shown below.
Also, the soldered joints are not shielded in any way. It looks like the "engineers" slipped some tube onto the wires, then soldered them and then realised that they couldn't slip the tube onto the connection and fill it with silicone as is usual. This is another reason I wanted to desolder the joints. Any advice would be appreciated.
Regards,
Preso
If it is best not to disturb it I will try to lift the existing tube out of the way.Also, the soldered joints are not shielded in any way. It looks like the "engineers" slipped some tube onto the wires, then soldered them and then realised that they couldn't slip the tube onto the connection and fill it with silicone as is usual. This is another reason I wanted to desolder the joints. Any advice would be appreciated.
Regards,
Preso
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Re: Desoldering laser tube connection?
I've no idea whether you can de-solder, though personally I would just tear the wire out of the solder and snip any excess away (without trying to be perfectionist about it!).
Then I'd use a connector like the one you've shown - brilliant idea and I can't imagine why no-one has come up with this move before.
Then I'd use a connector like the one you've shown - brilliant idea and I can't imagine why no-one has come up with this move before.
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Re: Desoldering laser tube connection?
Thanks NickWL,
I had sort of decided that I would do as you suggested but then the problem sort of resolved itself. While I was inspecting the tube, one of the wires just fell off the terminal, solder and all. It appears the solder never properly alloyed with the terminal material which I am guessing is not copper. If I can get the other wire off the same way the fix will be simple. After some more research, I have found that the screw in the terminal connector should be non-metallic so that it cannot arc to the chassis. I will make some nylon ones.
Regards,
Preso
I had sort of decided that I would do as you suggested but then the problem sort of resolved itself. While I was inspecting the tube, one of the wires just fell off the terminal, solder and all. It appears the solder never properly alloyed with the terminal material which I am guessing is not copper. If I can get the other wire off the same way the fix will be simple. After some more research, I have found that the screw in the terminal connector should be non-metallic so that it cannot arc to the chassis. I will make some nylon ones.
Regards,
Preso
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Re: Desoldering laser tube connection?
That pin I believe is Tungsten which is why the solder didn't stick (to solder to Tungsten takes insane temperatures for hobbyists).
Where did you find that terminal if I may ask? Currently I am being forced to use an alligator clip that is soldered to the HV wire and then pressed tight against the pin using pliers and soldering the 'teeth' together to reduce arc chance. Kind of messy, but I haven't found a better way yet.
Where did you find that terminal if I may ask? Currently I am being forced to use an alligator clip that is soldered to the HV wire and then pressed tight against the pin using pliers and soldering the 'teeth' together to reduce arc chance. Kind of messy, but I haven't found a better way yet.
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Re: Desoldering laser tube connection?
Axeman,
I had a feeling it would be tungsten. The connectors I am thinking of using are sold here in Australia as "BP" Mains Connectors. Link on Ebay is http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40A-Mains-Cu ... 5c1&_uhb=1 You can buy them with single screws for active and neutral and double screws for earth. Maybe just filling the screw cup with silicone would be sufficient to stop arcing to the chassis.
As I look deeper into the guts of my laser I can't help wondering how it was even deemed to be safe when it was sold. I came to own by a rather sad but circuitous route. The secondary school I was working at originally purchased a 40 watt machine from a vendor here in Australia called Red Dot Machinery in Sydney. It was a reasonable machine with a 500 X 300 capacity and motorized Z table. We had numerous problems with it though and although the vendor promised telephone support before we purchased I was never able to speak to the guy on the phone. Everything was done by email with usually a two day turnaround to get replies. We paid AU$8500 for what was essentially a $1500 machine. It arrived direct from China so the guy never even checked it before we received it. Because students would be using it I specified that it must have an interlock on the lid but guess what? No interlock, and even after I fitted one I still burned myself trying to solve issues with a failing stepper motor. We eventually sent the machine back while it was still under warranty and what the guy sent us as a replacement is the machine I eventually purchased from the school for $200. We never did get it to work due to incompatible software and what I suspect was the wrong dongle for the machine. I eventually lost patience with the vendor and threatened to put the whole matter in the hands of the Education Departments legal department. Our intrepid legal team took six months to send the company a letter of demand which the vendor ignored and sent back with "recipient no longer at this address" scrawled on the unopened envelope. He is still trading though!
The laser I now have arrived with broken plastic bearing mounts for the Z adjustment, a manual adjustment instead of motorized and the general build quality is appalling. There were loose screws, washers and nuts in the bottom of the chassis and mismatched screw sizes on components. I have so far replaced all the Z screw mounts, fitted an new fully machined beam combiner, upgraded the tube mountings, mirror mounts and of course I have fitted an AWC608 DSP. Basically, I am just using the chassis, the XY stage and some of the electrics. One bonus is that it came with a working water radiator, air pump and rotary table.
Regards,
Preso
I had a feeling it would be tungsten. The connectors I am thinking of using are sold here in Australia as "BP" Mains Connectors. Link on Ebay is http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40A-Mains-Cu ... 5c1&_uhb=1 You can buy them with single screws for active and neutral and double screws for earth. Maybe just filling the screw cup with silicone would be sufficient to stop arcing to the chassis.
As I look deeper into the guts of my laser I can't help wondering how it was even deemed to be safe when it was sold. I came to own by a rather sad but circuitous route. The secondary school I was working at originally purchased a 40 watt machine from a vendor here in Australia called Red Dot Machinery in Sydney. It was a reasonable machine with a 500 X 300 capacity and motorized Z table. We had numerous problems with it though and although the vendor promised telephone support before we purchased I was never able to speak to the guy on the phone. Everything was done by email with usually a two day turnaround to get replies. We paid AU$8500 for what was essentially a $1500 machine. It arrived direct from China so the guy never even checked it before we received it. Because students would be using it I specified that it must have an interlock on the lid but guess what? No interlock, and even after I fitted one I still burned myself trying to solve issues with a failing stepper motor. We eventually sent the machine back while it was still under warranty and what the guy sent us as a replacement is the machine I eventually purchased from the school for $200. We never did get it to work due to incompatible software and what I suspect was the wrong dongle for the machine. I eventually lost patience with the vendor and threatened to put the whole matter in the hands of the Education Departments legal department. Our intrepid legal team took six months to send the company a letter of demand which the vendor ignored and sent back with "recipient no longer at this address" scrawled on the unopened envelope. He is still trading though!
The laser I now have arrived with broken plastic bearing mounts for the Z adjustment, a manual adjustment instead of motorized and the general build quality is appalling. There were loose screws, washers and nuts in the bottom of the chassis and mismatched screw sizes on components. I have so far replaced all the Z screw mounts, fitted an new fully machined beam combiner, upgraded the tube mountings, mirror mounts and of course I have fitted an AWC608 DSP. Basically, I am just using the chassis, the XY stage and some of the electrics. One bonus is that it came with a working water radiator, air pump and rotary table.
Regards,
Preso
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Re: Desoldering laser tube connection?
Holy smokes...what a story! (and what an awful build quality of a machine...that's terrible).
As for arching...What I use (again very DIY but hey it works) is I have a combination of glass fiber tape from 3M, something like this http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/e ... gv%29&rt=d
On the top of the connection, I cut open a 1/4" thick silicone airline tube and wrapped it around, which stops all electrical arcing situations (figured that out by touching the connection accidentally before using the silicone and confirmation after fixing it). So that helps out. Lots of silicone makes a HUGE difference with insulation.
Thank you for that connector info...that's a big help. I'm going to hunt down a piece and see about finding just a single terminal and wrap it up in silicone so it'll be nice and snug.
As for arching...What I use (again very DIY but hey it works) is I have a combination of glass fiber tape from 3M, something like this http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/e ... gv%29&rt=d
On the top of the connection, I cut open a 1/4" thick silicone airline tube and wrapped it around, which stops all electrical arcing situations (figured that out by touching the connection accidentally before using the silicone and confirmation after fixing it). So that helps out. Lots of silicone makes a HUGE difference with insulation.
Thank you for that connector info...that's a big help. I'm going to hunt down a piece and see about finding just a single terminal and wrap it up in silicone so it'll be nice and snug.
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Re: Desoldering laser tube connection?
Yes to the silicone - when I rebuilt my K40 the terminal were encased in a ¼" plastic tube stuffed with silicone - I reconnected it the same way.
As to build quality... My K40 was APPALLING!!!! No safeties anywhere, green/yellow striped wire (which in the UK is Earth) use for live wires, colour coding wasn't a code at all, it looked as though they just grabbed the next available wire out of the pile on the floor!
Cabinet build was no better, I had to build seals all round (magnetic sheet is brilliant for this!).
Not complaining though - the wiring ALL went in the bin to be replaced with sensible wires when I DSP'd it, the leaks got sorted and I still got the skeleton of what is now a very good system at a reasonable price. And I got introduced to Lightobject!
As to build quality... My K40 was APPALLING!!!! No safeties anywhere, green/yellow striped wire (which in the UK is Earth) use for live wires, colour coding wasn't a code at all, it looked as though they just grabbed the next available wire out of the pile on the floor!
Cabinet build was no better, I had to build seals all round (magnetic sheet is brilliant for this!).
Not complaining though - the wiring ALL went in the bin to be replaced with sensible wires when I DSP'd it, the leaks got sorted and I still got the skeleton of what is now a very good system at a reasonable price. And I got introduced to Lightobject!
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Re: Desoldering laser tube connection?
Lightobject's motto should be "Making cheap Chinese junk into great lasers". I have been very impressed with Marco's support and quality. His stuff really makes a world of difference at good prices.
NickWL wrote:Yes to the silicone - when I rebuilt my K40 the terminal were encased in a ¼" plastic tube stuffed with silicone - I reconnected it the same way.
As to build quality... My K40 was APPALLING!!!! No safeties anywhere, green/yellow striped wire (which in the UK is Earth) use for live wires, colour coding wasn't a code at all, it looked as though they just grabbed the next available wire out of the pile on the floor!
Cabinet build was no better, I had to build seals all round (magnetic sheet is brilliant for this!).
Not complaining though - the wiring ALL went in the bin to be replaced with sensible wires when I DSP'd it, the leaks got sorted and I still got the skeleton of what is now a very good system at a reasonable price. And I got introduced to Lightobject!
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Re: Desoldering laser tube connection?
Thank you all yours compliment. I take it all
What a great encouragement!!
Marco

What a great encouragement!!
Marco
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Re: Desoldering laser tube connection?
I have moved on from the idea of using BP Mains Connectors to join the tube terminals to the HV wiring. Today I machined two brass rods with 3mm socket head grub screws to clamp the tungsten tube posts to the HV positive and negative supply. These are just slightly bigger than the internal bore of the silicone water tubing so that I can run a sleeve of silicone over each connector and then coat each with a smear of silicone sealer to stop any moisture seeping into the joint. The tungsten posts are around 1.2mm diameter and the connector is drilled out at 1.6mm diameter. It all seems to go together OK. I won't know for sure until I get my new power supply!
Regards
Preso
Regards
Preso
- Attachments
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- This view shows the silicone tube partially pushed over the brass connector.
- Brass HV connector sleeve.jpg (75.43 KiB) Viewed 5175 times
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- This view shows the brass connector snugged down onto the HV wire and the tube post.
- Brass HV connector.jpg (73.37 KiB) Viewed 5175 times
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Re: Desoldering laser tube connection?
Not recommended to attach such big 'weight' connector to the fragile pin. You may break the pin with a tiny movement on the HV cable
I'll try to get some pin type connector; one end is screw and another end is snap on
Marco
I'll try to get some pin type connector; one end is screw and another end is snap on
Marco
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Re: Desoldering laser tube connection?
That would be awesome Marco.
In my case with my tube, my pin is totally vertical sticking out of my tube, so me using an alligator clip is the only way to attach the wire without having pressure against the glass/pin portion.
Very frustrating setup indeed. But you always make this so much better for us Marco, that's why we hang out here =D
In my case with my tube, my pin is totally vertical sticking out of my tube, so me using an alligator clip is the only way to attach the wire without having pressure against the glass/pin portion.
Very frustrating setup indeed. But you always make this so much better for us Marco, that's why we hang out here =D
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Re: Desoldering laser tube connection?
Hello, I have just received the 100w "SP" laser tube to replace my old RECI tube and I noticed that these tubes just have a metal pin and did not come with any kind of connector. My machine has screw on washers that I hate to cut off, but see no other option.
Before I do this, I was hoping someone would have a better suggestion.
Should I just cut them off and solder directly to laser tube? I also have no silicone to protect the connection.
Before I do this, I was hoping someone would have a better suggestion.
Should I just cut them off and solder directly to laser tube? I also have no silicone to protect the connection.
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Re: Desoldering laser tube connection?
Never ever trying to use a soldering iron for CO2 connection! Doing so, you're not only damage the tube but will void the warranty instantly!
You can strip off the protection jacket and wrap the wire to the pin a couple round. Than tight it with a cable tide or some sort of fixture. If you don't have the silicon glue it is OK. Just cover the pin with a small piece of Silicon tubing. Do not use a regular electrical tape as it has nothing to do the high voltage protection. Plus, it may cause "static" accumulated.
Marco
You can strip off the protection jacket and wrap the wire to the pin a couple round. Than tight it with a cable tide or some sort of fixture. If you don't have the silicon glue it is OK. Just cover the pin with a small piece of Silicon tubing. Do not use a regular electrical tape as it has nothing to do the high voltage protection. Plus, it may cause "static" accumulated.
Marco
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Re: Desoldering laser tube connection?
That's a really good idea Marco, hadn't thought of that.Tech_Marco wrote:You can strip off the protection jacket and wrap the wire to the pin a couple round. Than tight it with a cable tide or some sort of fixture.
Marco
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