Hello
Z table come without any instructions to connect it or assemble it. Can anybody attach any instructions ? In this moment I understand that I need to buy more parts to connect this table like step controller and step driver if I have Moshiboard k40 - is it correct.
In shop product description is:
"The unit came as a kit. It should take less than 90 min to set it up. It's a fun to build it!" anybody can help with step by step instructions ?
Z table conection instruction
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Re: Z table conection instruction
Yes, you need more parts to connect it. If it your cutter doesn't have DSP out of the box ( which most k40's don't ). Check out this thread:
viewtopic.php?f=70&t=2611
If you decide to go the way of DSP, then check out this thread:
viewtopic.php?f=70&t=2637
As for actually building the table, there are no real 'instructions' floating around ( I should have done a step-by-step since I knew this - doh ), but the image from the sales page can more-or-less get you through the construction. See here:
http://www.lightobject.com/Power-table- ... -P722.aspx
I think the way I did it was to basically flip the image upside down for reference.
Mainly, you just take your two blue frames and, starting with the 'thicker' one, on your workspace, You add the motor/motor mount. This is done with two fairly short bolts and pay attention to the orientation with the pics: You'll want the motor poking 'up' towards where the thinner blue frame will be and outward away from the table.
Next, you add your aluminum posts using the included bolts. ( One side of the frame will have indentations to accommodate the tubes and the threaded rods with the ball bearings on them ). Now, take your long threaded shafts and, referring to the brass fittings and brass sprockets on them, seat them with the ball bearings on the ends into your blue frame. When you do this, the brass fitting, which is actually two pieces, should be orientated so that the brass nut that screws onto the fitting is facing up ( towards where your thinner blue frame will be ) which also will place the brass sprockets nearest to your thick frame ( as in, downward ). Remove the brass nuts at this time. When you're placing these threaded rods, make sure you drive belt is going around the outside of each sprocket like in the picture.
At this point you should have your wider blue frame sitting on your table, with the motor attached facing upwards and eight things sticking up into the air ( four aluminum tubes and four threaded rods. Your drive belt should be around the outside of each sprocket.
Next, you slide on your black/silver table ( the one with all the holes in it ), so that all four aluminum tubes and all four threaded rods pass through their correct holes. Next, you screw back on those brass nuts to the brass fittings to secure the table.
Now sit your narrower blue frame down onto your aluminum shafts and threaded rods making sure that the side of the frame with the indents is facing down. Make sure all four of your threaded shafts still have their ball bearings on them and fiddle around until everything gets seated into it's proper place. Add the four included bolts through the blue frame to attach it to the aluminum rods. You can now flip your table over onto it's wider blue frame part.
Finally, add your tension adjustment ( the last blue piece ) to the bottom of the wider frame with the correct side up as per the picture using the two included bolts. The tension should be taunt, but not strong - it doesn't need to be very tight to work right. Before tightning the screws fully, slide the tension adjustment to your push the belt to the desired tension and then, while holding that tension, tighten the two bolts to hold it there.
That's the main part of the build. You'll want to make sure your table is running level to the frame ( I did this by measuring a set distance from the bottom blue plate up to the buttom of the brass fittings and making sure each one was equal before fully re-tightning the brass nut above the table ). Also ensure that your drive belt is properly place both at the motor and around all four brass sprockets.
If you build it and have issues such as binding when it's trying to go up and down, refer to this thread:
viewtopic.php?f=70&t=2455
viewtopic.php?f=70&t=2611
If you decide to go the way of DSP, then check out this thread:
viewtopic.php?f=70&t=2637
As for actually building the table, there are no real 'instructions' floating around ( I should have done a step-by-step since I knew this - doh ), but the image from the sales page can more-or-less get you through the construction. See here:
http://www.lightobject.com/Power-table- ... -P722.aspx
I think the way I did it was to basically flip the image upside down for reference.
Mainly, you just take your two blue frames and, starting with the 'thicker' one, on your workspace, You add the motor/motor mount. This is done with two fairly short bolts and pay attention to the orientation with the pics: You'll want the motor poking 'up' towards where the thinner blue frame will be and outward away from the table.
Next, you add your aluminum posts using the included bolts. ( One side of the frame will have indentations to accommodate the tubes and the threaded rods with the ball bearings on them ). Now, take your long threaded shafts and, referring to the brass fittings and brass sprockets on them, seat them with the ball bearings on the ends into your blue frame. When you do this, the brass fitting, which is actually two pieces, should be orientated so that the brass nut that screws onto the fitting is facing up ( towards where your thinner blue frame will be ) which also will place the brass sprockets nearest to your thick frame ( as in, downward ). Remove the brass nuts at this time. When you're placing these threaded rods, make sure you drive belt is going around the outside of each sprocket like in the picture.
At this point you should have your wider blue frame sitting on your table, with the motor attached facing upwards and eight things sticking up into the air ( four aluminum tubes and four threaded rods. Your drive belt should be around the outside of each sprocket.
Next, you slide on your black/silver table ( the one with all the holes in it ), so that all four aluminum tubes and all four threaded rods pass through their correct holes. Next, you screw back on those brass nuts to the brass fittings to secure the table.
Now sit your narrower blue frame down onto your aluminum shafts and threaded rods making sure that the side of the frame with the indents is facing down. Make sure all four of your threaded shafts still have their ball bearings on them and fiddle around until everything gets seated into it's proper place. Add the four included bolts through the blue frame to attach it to the aluminum rods. You can now flip your table over onto it's wider blue frame part.
Finally, add your tension adjustment ( the last blue piece ) to the bottom of the wider frame with the correct side up as per the picture using the two included bolts. The tension should be taunt, but not strong - it doesn't need to be very tight to work right. Before tightning the screws fully, slide the tension adjustment to your push the belt to the desired tension and then, while holding that tension, tighten the two bolts to hold it there.
That's the main part of the build. You'll want to make sure your table is running level to the frame ( I did this by measuring a set distance from the bottom blue plate up to the buttom of the brass fittings and making sure each one was equal before fully re-tightning the brass nut above the table ). Also ensure that your drive belt is properly place both at the motor and around all four brass sprockets.
If you build it and have issues such as binding when it's trying to go up and down, refer to this thread:
viewtopic.php?f=70&t=2455
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Re: Z table conection instruction
Hi
Thanks for Your time and detailed instruction. If You could also give me detailed instruction to connect it to the machine. I see the step motor controler is needed. Do I need also driver controler ? .
Thanks for Your time and detailed instruction. If You could also give me detailed instruction to connect it to the machine. I see the step motor controler is needed. Do I need also driver controler ? .
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- Joined: Wed May 20, 2015 7:32 am
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Re: Z table conection instruction
Hi,
No worries on the instructions
To be honest, I'm not the best one to tell you how to connect your Z table to Moshi, as I've not done it myself - I went from out-of-the-box straight to X7 upgrades, so I just used another of the same stepper motor controllers as I used for the X and Y axis upgrades.
Generally, and I'm just taking an educated guess here, I would think you would go from the Z table motor to a motor driver and then to a control board ( like this one: viewtopic.php?f=16&t=1493 ) . As to -how- to hook those up exactly, sorry, someone else will have to guide you through that one as I'd probably just blow something up
There is also a PDF of a wiring schemaic on that page I just noted - how reliable is it, I don't know.
One thing I can tell you though is ( and to be honest, I'm not even sure if this is actually right ) that when I put the Z table into my machine, I had to orientate the table so that the motor was towards the back of the machine and poking upwards ( so, in other words, the motor was to the back/right of the machine ) and, in order for it to fit in, that was after cutting about an inch off my exhaust fan hood inside the machine.
No worries on the instructions
To be honest, I'm not the best one to tell you how to connect your Z table to Moshi, as I've not done it myself - I went from out-of-the-box straight to X7 upgrades, so I just used another of the same stepper motor controllers as I used for the X and Y axis upgrades.
Generally, and I'm just taking an educated guess here, I would think you would go from the Z table motor to a motor driver and then to a control board ( like this one: viewtopic.php?f=16&t=1493 ) . As to -how- to hook those up exactly, sorry, someone else will have to guide you through that one as I'd probably just blow something up
There is also a PDF of a wiring schemaic on that page I just noted - how reliable is it, I don't know.
One thing I can tell you though is ( and to be honest, I'm not even sure if this is actually right ) that when I put the Z table into my machine, I had to orientate the table so that the motor was towards the back of the machine and poking upwards ( so, in other words, the motor was to the back/right of the machine ) and, in order for it to fit in, that was after cutting about an inch off my exhaust fan hood inside the machine.
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Re: Z table conection instruction
Great thanks for advise. It will be very usefully
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