K40 mini rotary. Higher quality made

[DonL]

OK... For anyone interested... The 90 degree head works like a charm....
this is with a K40 35 watt laser at 25% engraving a 70mm water bottle at 90 degrees, I estimate I can likely engrave up to 100mm dia object. A far cry from the 30mm Dia. max I could engrave before the mod.

16 oz Stainless Steel water bottle Engraved

[Tech_Marco]

Marco, are you going to have the programmer update the R8 as well?

Sorry it can't be done on the R5 because it is from a different provider

Marco

[DonL]

Marco,

Friendly Suggestions... If the programmer can add an option to use U for rotary, These would be handy attributes

um Calculator
Object Diameter
U Axis Speed
Pulse per revolution
Checkbox :
When checked the Y axis is disabled and U is then used for Rotary
and Disable Y Homing so you don't need to hot-switch This would be handy for people that mainly do rotary you can leave the machine all set up and just turn it on.

What I do is reach in and tap the Y homing switch rather than swapping out, power up then swap back.
a cool feature would be to auto resize the work space to match just need to enter object length, diameter is already entered.

Actually, it would not take much to just modify the rotary option already in the advanced settings dialog

Anyway, I appreciate your looking into this as it would greatly improve the software and ultimately result in more Rotary table sales.
If I had the source code I would add all sorts of features and share them here....

Don

[Techgraphix]

When checked the Y axis is disabled and U is then used for Rotary
and Disable Y Homing so you don't need to hot-switch

When you connect the rotary to the U-axis, I think you also have a separate stepperdriver for the rotational, right?
You don't need to disable the Y-homing as this is another axis. After the reset-homing it will return to the set position..
Only thing is that you have to turn off the machine when you want to connect or remove the rotational-unit as stepperdrivers don't like it when you remove the load when it's on..

Maybe there is a kind of connector that also has a switch-function so you could disable the driver prior to disconnecting it.. and vice-versa: first connect it and the switch the drive to enable.. Or something like a bajonet-connector with a magnet to activate a reedcontact when in lock-position..


Kees

[DonL]

The current process is to disconnect the Y after you position the laser to the center of the table over the rotary, then connect the rotary to the Y circuit. So this is bad as well... If you swap the Y before powering up, you need to reach in and trip the homing switch manually or the rotary will sit and spin all day. And then the Gantry will not move because the Y driver is powered and all the Y controls now run the rotary.... It would be no trouble to hook up a toggle to toggle the power on or off on the U driver, still better than disconnecting and connecting the Y channel. By having the U double as a Rotary, You can put the table in, hook'er up, use the arrow keys to position the laser and start lasering... Less fuss and less risk of damage.

I do have a separate driver for the Y and Rotary and I also have one for the U if needed. For me, I use a CAT5 for the rotary table cable, I could just jump pins 7 and 8 in my RJ45 so when it is plugged in for rotary use it turn the rotary driver on via a relay to switch the 24v power for that driver on or off.


Don

[Techgraphix]

I could just jump pins 7 and 8 in my RJ45 so when it is plugged in for rotary use it turn the rotary driver on via a relay to switch the 24v power for that driver on or off.

This way you can switch the driver on and off BUT: it doesn't switch it on AFTER the motor is connected and doesn't switch it off BEFORE you disconnect the motor..
There are connectors with longer and shorter pins to make sure the longer pins make contact before the shorter pins do.. The shorter pins should be used to switch on and off the drive.. If the time is sufficient to switch it down fully before the disconnection.. A separate switch still is better, unless you forget to set it to safe..

Kees

[DonL]

I agree, a switch is a simple solution and addresses proper sequencing.

[flecky2006]

Hello there ,
I want to install as a German Rotary Tool.
Is there a manual for the 2m415?
or can anyone tell how I put him in a K40 me?

Is it even possible with the original board of K40 ???
or do I have the D / K40 upgrade make?

thank you and sorry for my english

[DonL]

Hello there ,
I want to install as a German Rotary Tool.
Is there a manual for the 2m415?
or can anyone tell how I put him in a K40 me?

Is it even possible with the original board of K40 ???
or do I have the D / K40 upgrade make?

thank you and sorry for my english

To use a rotary, you need to disconnect the Y axis and connect the rotary to the Y axis so that instead of the laser moving front to back, the rotary rotates.
There is a section in this forum that explains it.
The motor on the rotary is wired the same as the Y motor so it is just switching them. I recommend that you get a separate driver for the rotary and not disturb the Y wiring.

You probably could hook the rotary to the original board but I never tried so you would be on your own... These drawings may help

[flecky2006]

I'm going to my K40 laser remodeling, I think that's the best solution?
http://www.lightobject.com/AWC608-DSP-u ... -P758.aspx
I'm going in a days Order

[DonL]

I'm going to my K40 laser remodeling, I think that's the best solution?
http://www.lightobject.com/AWC608-DSP-u ... -P758.aspx
I'm going in a days Order

I went with the LO-X7 http://www.lightobject.com/X7-DSP-upgra ... -P942.aspx
it was $40 more but has more of the fetures I like and has the AWC708c Board
If they had the AWC708Plus I would have purchased that one. It is a bit over what I need but I could upgrade the rest of the parts and not need another controller in the future.

The AWC608 is a good choice too for the K40

I suggest you get 2 more stepper drivers and the Z Table plus Rotary Attachment then you can do a lot more will cost you another $200 or so but worth it.

Nice to have is a set of focal lenses 1" - 2" so 1", 1.5", 2" No need for the 2.5" because the K40 is not strong enough to cut thick material, the 1" is good for fine engraving on Pens or Stamp making, the 1.5" (38.1mm) is good for high quality plaques, rotational engraving, gives really nice detail on fonts 2mm square and bigger, and the 1.5" is good for cutting Plexiglass, Acrylic, MDF or thin Plywood and so on, gives a nice square edge.

Nice things to have:

Beam Combiner to give red dot... I couldn't live without it now
Air Assist - Keeps lense clean and aids in cutting
Some Laser-Dark and 12" Masking if you engrave wood, gives a prfessional finish
Cermark paints for Bare Metal and glass, adds color to glass etching and allows etching on metal like Stainless Steel, Nickel Chrome, Bare Aluminium - Gives a nice black etch
There are thousands of excellent products you can use the machine on.

Hope this helps...
Don

[Q*bert]

OK... For anyone interested... The 90 degree head works like a charm....
this is with a K40 35 watt laser at 25% engraving a 70mm water bottle at 90 degrees, I estimate I can likely engrave up to 100mm dia object. A far cry from the 30mm Dia. max I could engrave before the mod.

Hi DonL.

Care to share any details in how you made your 90 degree head? Looks like a great idea!

[DonL]

OK... For anyone interested... The 90 degree head works like a charm....
this is with a K40 35 watt laser at 25% engraving a 70mm water bottle at 90 degrees, I estimate I can likely engrave up to 100mm dia object. A far cry from the 30mm Dia. max I could engrave before the mod.

Hi DonL.

Care to share any details in how you made your 90 degree head? Looks like a great idea!

Sure,

I purchased 2 Laser heads LSR-LH1820B from Light Object along with a Mirror and just to save fiddling around I also ordered a dedicated lens for this....

I ground the entrance hole on one head flat (Part A)
I then assemble Part B and part C with a shim the same thickness as the laser head mount hole in the gantry mechanism nice and tight so the in hole is exactly 90 degrees from the out hole of the second laser head. If you cant find a shim, you can use the mount itself... It is important so that when it is put together, and screwed down tight, it lines up with the beam entering the center of the side hole across from the mirror in part C

Now bond Part B to Part A using Epoxy or I used a liquid plastic that cures with UV Light like a dental filling and so it bonds immediately

So now you have a complete laser head with a threaded hollow post where the side hole is, stick that post (Part B) into the gantry mechanism so the laser head is pointing toward you, now screw the upper mirror assy. (Part C) on the threaded post so the hole for the laser is pointing at the mirror on your gantry. It should tighten nicely at 90 degrees, if not you can use shims under the gantry mount to adjust, I used a card stock paper shim to fine tune... It has to be fairly tight or the rapid side to side motion will loosen it. See my previous post for images of the 90 degree head in action...

With this mod, on a K40 Laser, I can now easily rotary engrave objects that are 80, even 120 mm in diameter where before I was limited to about 20 or 30mm with the Z table all the way down, - useless unless you are engraving test tubes...

This mod has made the rotary table very useful.

90-2.JPG (28.74 KiB) Viewed 4764 times

[Q*bert]

OK... For anyone interested... The 90 degree head works like a charm....
this is with a K40 35 watt laser at 25% engraving a 70mm water bottle at 90 degrees, I estimate I can likely engrave up to 100mm dia object. A far cry from the 30mm Dia. max I could engrave before the mod.

Hi DonL.

Care to share any details in how you made your 90 degree head? Looks like a great idea!

Sure,

I purchased 2 Laser heads LSR-LH1820B from Light Object along with a Mirror and just to save fiddling around I also ordered a dedicated lens for this....

I ground the entrance hole on one head flat (Part A)
I then assemble Part B and part C with a shim the same thickness as the laser head mount hole in the gantry mechanism nice and tight so the in hole is exactly 90 degrees from the out hole of the second laser head. If you cant find a shim, you can use the mount itself... It is important so that when it is put together, and screwed down tight, it lines up with the beam entering the center of the side hole across from the mirror in part C

Now bond Part B to Part A using Epoxy or I used a liquid plastic that cures with UV Light like a dental filling and so it bonds immediately

So now you have a complete laser head with a threaded hollow post where the side hole is, stick that post (Part B) into the gantry mechanism so the laser head is pointing toward you, now screw the upper mirror assy. (Part C) on the threaded post so the hole for the laser is pointing at the mirror on your gantry. It should tighten nicely at 90 degrees, if not you can use shims under the gantry mount to adjust, I used a card stock paper shim to fine tune... It has to be fairly tight or the rapid side to side motion will loosen it. See my previous post for images of the 90 degree head in action...

With this mod, on a K40 Laser, I can now easily rotary engrave objects that are 80, even 120 mm in diameter where before I was limited to about 20 or 30mm with the Z table all the way down, - useless unless you are engraving test tubes...

This mod has made the rotary table very useful.

Thanks a lot. I'm ordering a couple of laser heads today!

[DonL]

Thanks a lot. I'm ordering a couple of laser heads today!

No problem, I added more detail to the post in a second image, the key thing to remember is all angles are 90 Degrees... if you are off by a few degrees, the beam may hit inside the barrel or will not be centered when exiting and thus distorted.

You want the beam to hit the center of the 45 degree mirror on the top and hit the center of the 45 degree mirror on the bottom and you should be good... 45 + 45 = 90 degrees

There is not a lot of metal to grind away so you just need enough so the threaded adapter sits on a small flat area, and not on the curvature where it will not have any support, I think the flat area I made was just a bit less than the diameter of the hole so only about 30% of the adapter is on the flat but that is enough.