Lightobject.com Support Forum

I had to replace my +/- connectors when I rebuild my machine with the new power supply I got here (20w/40w/60w). I tried to solder the new wire to the + post and it just wouldn't stick to it. So I trimmed a barrel connector and crimped it to the wire then to the post and it worked fine until I burned the tube out.
I tried the same thing to the new tube, but The post cracked free from the glass and I heard a sucking sound. I suppose the tube is ruined.
How do I avoid breaking the glass when crimping the connector to the post? Is there a better way? A better crimping tool? A better connector?
I don't EVER want to break a new tube like that again. Any suggestions?

Craig:

Do NOT try to connect the HV cable to the pin by using a soldering iron. It will damage the tube because the pin/gas doesn't bond well. If you heat the pin up it will expand then contracted and causing gas leaking. Plus, you don't want to press too hard on the pin either because it is just a piece of glass.

What you need to do is to peel off the protection jacket from the HV cable, then wrap the pin a couple times firmly. Then, use a cable tide to lock the cable tight on the pin. To avoid it getting lose, use another cable tide (longer one) to hold the HV cable on the tube so that the connection part won't move at all


Marco

The reason I tried soldering the old one was because I didn't know any better.

The original connection looked like it was crimped on to the post, and a latex tube was filled with silicone over it. The hot wire covering for the 20w/40w/60w power supply came with a thick red covering plus a latex tube around it. I did successfully crimp that on the post and it seemed to have adequate insulation from the latex tube.

My attempt to replicate that level of insulation was working on the new tube, but the crimp part failed by breaking the glass. I had a 1/4in acrylic tube shoved into a larger latex tube (pretty snug) and my wire fit into the acrylic tube just perfectly.

Your post indicates using 2 cable ties, one to the post and one to the tube? Do you have a photo? I would think the insulation would be lacking on an approach like that. Do you have a photo? I was thinking a small wire nut might work, but because the post and wire have to point the same direction, that too would be difficult to insulate.

I'm looking for a fool proof way to connect the tube to the wires without risk of breaking the tube again and having proper insulation. I'm willing to try the cable tie approach, but don't fully understand how that would work. (I need a picture)

Thanks

This worked for me!
The HV cable in my machine had been soldered on by the manufacturer. After reading various posts about why this was a bad idea I carefully removed the solder which luckily had not bonded properly to the tungsten pin, I experimented with screw connectors. See this post viewtopic.php?f=47&t=2187
The brass connector I made was a little on the heavy side and the diameter was larger than the inside bore of the silicone air tubing which is most often used as an insulator around the connection. I made the barrel of the connector slightly shorter and just a fraction larger than the interior bore of the tube. When the 3mm socket head grub screw is fastened down I slid a short length of tube over it and the glass tube around the tungsten post. I did not add any silicone sealer and so far it has worked perfectly.

I would love to have a set of connectors! but I don't 'make' parts like that.

I thought I would be able to jam the wires onto the posts, but after looking at the wire, that approach was not going to work.

I did the wrap around the post with a small zip-tie thing. I really felt that I didn't do a great job on it. The laser seems to work though, and I'm calibrating the settings I need to cut the parts I need. I did silicone the contact, its needed to prevent arcing. You should probably add some to your connectors.

I did have one problem though, when I was putting the rubber hose on the tube I herd a loud 'snap'. I didn't want to look, I already broke a tube last week. The end cap with the water tube inside snapped off. I hope it not a problem. I'm not confident with the results yet.

Most folks didn't pay attention when putting on the hose. You need to push the back of the other side to avoid the break of the connection. It's not the first time I heard that this thing happened. The other things to look at the HV pin. When one applied too much force on the pin, the pin could be cracked as it is very fragile. Don't try to hard but with gentle force. A zip-tie is prefect but you got to know how to 'force' to use. Before, I use cutter to do the job and now I use a cable tie gun.


Marco