First step in the journey, getting the thing to my house. This was shipped in a monsterous amount of packaging, I was very impressed. Unfortunately it was so large after all the padding that my mail carrier couldn't fit it in their vehicle. I had to go pick it up at the post office where the postal workers affectionately nicknamed it the "giant dog bone" package. I think you will see why:
Out of the box (and multiple layers of tape, 2" of foam, and 15 layers of bubble wrap) it looked good and worked well when the Moshi software would let it. I immediately placed my order for the DSP controller!! The Moshi software was way too unstable.
Inside it was clean and the wires were well routed with lots of room to play with. with DSP controller in hand it was time to let the games begin!!
Step one, mounting all the goods, there are notes after the photo about some of the issues I dealt with. This is not nearly as neat as I like for my projects to be but it is functional.
Notes:
1. I elected to leave the "green giant" resistor. I have seen a number of posts that say it can go but I figured it did bother me to leave it.
2. I had to move the power supply back about 1.5" to make some extra room. It looked like lots of room at first but got a little cramped when I started adding things.
3. I used Marco's conversion PDF. Great work Marco!! Thank you.
4. My unit did not have a fan in the back. There was one in the power supply but it just moved hot air around the inside of the case. I grabbed a PC case fan out of the junk box and mounted it in the back.
5. The small board at the bottom is a custom 3 way power board. It supplies isolated 5 volts for the meter, 12 volts for the PC fan I added, and 3 volts for a laser pointer that will be added soon to the laser head so I can see where the laser will fire.
6. I added a new 6A 24v supply, the stock one was too weak for the motors and controller.
7. With all the tinkering in the electronics compartment, I think I bent the metal around the tube in the back. It didn't look bent but on full power it wanted to arc between the positive on the tube and the metal case. I fixed it by rotating the tube a few degrees to maximize the air gap between the positive and any metal.
Next step, making the panel look good. I used 1/8" lexan (no I didn't cut it on the laser, like Nancy Reagan said . . Just Say NO!). Anyway, I cut it on my scroll saw to mount all the components and covered it with white vinyl for a finished look.
Final step was to improve a little on the X-Y stage. The way the limit sensors were positioned and the garden hose "stops" were positioned, a lot of useful travel was lost (mainly on the Y axis). Notes to follow the photo.
Notes:
1. To the left is the garden hose stop for the Y axis. I trimmed about 3/4" off of it to increase positive travel.
2. To the right, there is a custom PC board I made to replace the optical Y limit sensor. By eliminating the optical sensor and making the custom board as small as possible, I gained an additional 1/2" of travel.
So now I have a very functional laser cutter fairly cheap, I'm ready to make a few more modifications before I move on to making my own from scratch.
1. I want to add the laser pointer to the laser head to indicate where the laser will fire on the material being cut or etched.
2. Air assist is in my not so distant future.
3. Adjustable table. There is one listed as out of stock on LightObject that looks awesome, I would love to buy one if anyone know of one available. If not, I would appreciate any ideas on implementing a movable table on these K40 laser engravers.
One more thing, not that anyone would be interested but I have added the EagleCAD files for the custom pc boards for the power supply and limit switch boards.
i receive my kit last week and i'M excated 
on me (based on the measurements on the site, I may have to trim back the vent some)