Lightobject.com Support Forum

Nick, i did another ramp test, and believe my distance marker is about 1mm off. The bit of metal that holds the head onto the X axis, I've cut a bit of acrylic that hooks onto that for quick measurement testing. I saw it done somewhere and copied the idea. I've also adjusted the settings for the Z motor driver, and the table runs much more smoothly now, although the top of the frame isn't on, along with 2 of the support poles for the top (as I've got sheets of acrylic that are ever so slightly too big).

As I'm still learning about the wavelengths, I'm hoping I've ordered the right pair of glasses. The specs of them are:
DIR. 810-<940 L3 LV Dince 0D3+
DIR 940-<930 L4 LV _11-OD4+
D 980-1064 L5 LV _11- OD7+
IR 980-1064 L7 LV -11-OD7+



Mitch, I've got one of the cheap 40W lasers you can get on eBay so it already came with a fully enclosed chassis.

I've just ordered some more acrylic to make the control panel to hold the switches, DSP panel and emergency stop switch. However, when I was adding extra IEC sockets on the back for teh fan, water pump and air pump, I found the chassis was extremely hard to cut through. I only have a Dremmel type rotary tool. If anyone has a better way of cutting through the lid, that would be great. I'm thinking about taking it to a local machine shop and asking them if they could do it for me.

I haven't actually tried it yet on my case (still a couple of weeks away from this step on my own conversion), but I was thinking my hand nibbling tool (Klein 76011) should work. It's a devil on the hands, but with a glove for protection and some patience I think it should get the job done.

I've also considered investing in an air-powered nibbling tool for use with my compressor to save my hands. I've found nibbling tools to be a life-saver on more than one occasion, so an air-powered one might be a good investment. Would be the way to go for a LARGE hole.

I was thinking of getting a nibbling cutter tool for my air compressor, but as this is likely to be the only time I need to do it, I don't particularly want to invest in a pair if I can help it. I'm going to try my jigsaw on it and hope that works well.

Hi Bing.
Normal polycarbonate lenses for safety glasses are fine for CO2 lasers as they absorb 100% of the wavelength. You don't need expensive glasses to do CO2 laser work.
If you want to test this then put some rice paper underneath a lens and fire the laser at it but don't let it burn all the way through the lens. You will find the paper not touched.
The issue I have when cutting is the very bright light emitted from the cut. Tinted safety glasses would be great for this.
Just my 0.02c worth.
Rich.

I suspect the K40 (cheap Chinese eBay laser) case is probably to tough for hand nibblers - even for light compressed air nibblers. Hope I'm wrong though!
Nick