Lightobject.com Support Forum

hi there
even if you don't like my comments, but you will learn that is not how you can work if you want not waist to much money and time.
like you can see the honeycomb frame does not fit.
greetings
waltfl

waltfl wrote:hi there
even if you don't like my comments, but you will learn that is not how you can work if you want not waist to much money and time.
like you can see the honeycomb frame does not fit.
greetings
waltfl

sorry man i dont understand what u ment by that, but, i really apriciate all your help.
i dont know where u got that from

hi there
what I said was take out the honeycomb from the frame and screw it to the original lift table top and there you got it
greetings
waltfl

rushmore1305 wrote:

waltfl wrote:hi there
even if you don't like my comments, but you will learn that is not how you can work if you want not waist to much money and time.
like you can see the honeycomb frame does not fit.
greetings
waltfl

sorry man i dont understand what u ment by that, but, i really apriciate all your help.
i dont know where u got that from

Oh, that is a great idea, see i thought it would not work, due to the the honeycomb not looking like its actually glued together, but pushed together at the perimiter wit those brackets, i thought that the pipes going through the middle of the honeycomb would simply slide out if the frame is removed, but either way, i think its better to actually swap that bed and make the honey comb the bed, just looks more proffesional dont u think?
if i have the ability to do so why not.

also could u please do me a huge and either email me some more pictures or just post them here of how you mounted the end nozzle for the air assist at the laser head area.

waltfl wrote:hi there
what I said was take out the honeycomb from the frame and screw it to the original lift table top and there you got it
greetings
waltfl

rushmore1305 wrote:

waltfl wrote:hi there
even if you don't like my comments, but you will learn that is not how you can work if you want not waist to much money and time.
like you can see the honeycomb frame does not fit.
greetings
waltfl

sorry man i dont understand what u ment by that, but, i really apriciate all your help.
i dont know where u got that from

ok real quick question, the laser head mount that is included with the kit, comes with air assist barb, in the pictures it has the fitting that goes over that barb, but it was not included, i even ordered another one just to make sure i get it but even separate one did not come with that connector, can someone tell me what i need to get

<img id="ProductImage" src="/Assets/ProductImages/LHK40AS2-500.jpg" border="0" alt="18~20mm Laser head w/ air assisted. Ideal for K40 machine">

this is the L shaped thing, i did not recieve on mine, i dont get it

We changed the connector to a small "M3" barb as using the "L" type air host connector make it so bulky and blocking some space
See image


Marco

oh i see, so do u sell that hose, ?

ok so also i just found, in the box with the DSP was something that looks like this:

http://www.lightobject.com/1205S-DC-DC- ... -P412.aspx

but no where in the manual does it mention this unit being installed at any point, please help me find out what am i missing herer

That is an isolated power module for the digital meter. It is nothing to do with the DSP card.
You use it to power the digital current meter from the DC24V as it convert 18~32V to 5V for the meter

Since I have almost finished my upgrade also, I just want to make sure I understand.

The part here: http://www.lightobject.com/1205S-DC-DC- ... -P412.aspx#

That is the part that came with my kit. It looks like we have the same part.

It states on the page 9-18 volt DC input.

Is it OK to use it with the 24v?

Not wanting to steal his topic, but since we both have questions about the same part I put it here. I can move it if needed.

Thanks

oh man, please, post and ask questions as much as you can, u would like that actually as people asking questions will usually help me also because most likely the questions i myself needed anwsers to but either forgot to answer or something like that, but thank you so much, i am very pleased that you were able to help me figure this out.

i am almost done with my Laser upgrade, mainly its taking so long because i have decided to go all out on this unit, even though i will most likely sell it soon after making a couple things and learning how to use it, and swap for bigger

but i decided to cut some more vent holes, and mainly what is taking so long i am painting casing, not sure what color, to cover all the holes i cut with paint

sorry i am not sure if i have asked this already but can someone tell me what is the water tubing size on the stock k40 laser?
i want to replace the tubing that is currently installed on the unit, with something more rigid and beter,
help me out here, is it 1/4 ID"??? or maybe 3/8" ID

rushmore1305 wrote:sorry i am not sure if i have asked this already but can someone tell me what is the water tubing size on the stock k40 laser?
i want to replace the tubing that is currently installed on the unit, with something more rigid and beter,
help me out here, is it 1/4 ID"??? or maybe 3/8" ID

You sure don't want to use rigid tube for the laser tube. You can crack the tube very easy when the tube is push. Use a better quality silicon flex tubing is good enough for next couple years

You may use 8X12 (usually for 60W or above). You need to use cable tide to lock it if you worry about losing
Or 6x9
http://www.lightobject.com/6X9-Silicon- ... -P756.aspx
(A little tight when doing installation but won't come out easy)


Marco