Few final questions about setting up the DSP on the K40

[pannaus]

Hey guys, here are some pics with relative questions:



Where do we have to attach the blue wire that came from the laser tube and was connected to the resistor?
What about the resistor?

===============





We took out the little card to where the flats of the stepper were attached.
Is that necessary or do we just connect the wires from the drivers to the motors?

==============


How do we connect these and where?

==============

Also, here's a video. PLeaste take a look and see if you can help us
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ebM9eU-pEWk

[Tech_Marco]

The blue wire is connected between the negative pole of the laser power supply and the negative terminal of the laser tube. The green "giant" is a current limiter to limit over (or high glitch) current. It came with the machine small machine because the came in power supply is no good and need this "giant" lower the current. Most likely that it could generate electric "glitch" the first moment of 'Fire' that the high glitch may hurt the laser tube (life span issue). If you replaced it with a quality PWM power supply, you can remove it.

The current meter must install in series with the load. In this case, you must install the meter in series(in between) with the negative side of the laser tube and the power supply. So, you connect tube's negative to the blue or green wire of the meter while connecting the other wire to the negative terminal of the laser power supply. Power it by DC5V and it should read the current for you. Remember that the respond time of this current meter is a little slow. It's good for use as current adjustment or during cutting. It won't be fast enough to monitor current flow during engraving.

See the attached image, the "mA"symbol = the current meter


Marco

[pannaus]

Ok, we got the blue wire and the current meter.

What about the red card under the current meter in the picture?
Where does that one go? Or did you send it by mistake?

Also, any hints about why the fan doesn't run and what the whistle in the video is?
What about the card that was attached to the motors previosly?

this one:







THanks!

[waltfl]

Hi
in the video the sound seams to have to do with your space acc set it down in the manufacturer settings.
the stepper driver sometimes need to be set to a higher setting ( 3200)
check your X- axis switch if he gets earlie enough engaged.
greetings
walt

Hey guys, here are some pics with relative questions:



Where do we have to attach the blue wire that came from the laser tube and was connected to the resistor?
What about the resistor?

===============





We took out the little card to where the flats of the stepper were attached.
Is that necessary or do we just connect the wires from the drivers to the motors?

==============


How do we connect these and where?

==============

Also, here's a video. PLeaste take a look and see if you can help us
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ebM9eU-pEWk

[pannaus]

THanks, but I don't understand this:

"do with your space acc"

acc stands for what exactly?
Thanks.

Also, do I have to set 3200 on the display?
We don't have "manufacturer settings on the display

[waltfl]

space acc is space acceleration setting in lasercut - opiton - system option - user parameter then see picture
the 3200 micro steps need to be set direckt on the stepper driver see manual
greetings
walt

THanks, but I don't understand this:

"do with your space acc"

acc stands for what exactly?
Thanks.

Also, do I have to set 3200 on the display?
We don't have "manufacturer settings on the display

[pannaus]

Guys, this is what we bought:

DSP:
1x http://www.lightobject.com/2012-Commerc ... -P321.aspx

24V power supply:
1x http://www.lightobject.com/DC-24V-5A-Sw ... -P579.aspx

Micro switch for homing:
2x http://www.lightobject.com/Search.aspx?k=limit%20switch

40W power supply
1x http://www.lightobject.com/40W-PWM-CO2- ... y-P71.aspx

Current meter:
1x http://www.lightobject.com/3-digit-Mini ... -P457.aspx

5V power module for the current meter
1x http://www.lightobject.com/LM2576-High- ... -P549.aspx


Stepping motor driver (you pick one of two kind below)

2x http://www.lightobject.com/Mini-2-Phase ... -P650.aspx (better)

Better focus lens (18mm)
http://www.lightobject.com/High-quality ... -P670.aspx

Air-assisted laser head:
http://www.lightobject.com/1820mm-Laser ... -P701.aspx

Problems:

laser doesn't work when pushing laser button on the display
lasercad software on this forum is very old (version 4.47 instead of laserCad 5.95), where do we get the latest version? We tried to search for this on the net everywhere.

Also, we do have 2M415 steppers and not KL5042.
Thanks guys!

[waltfl]

Ok ,
the new software can be downloaded at the manual / software here at the forum.
I use the original current meter dont need extra power supply.
I also use the M542 what is the same like the manual for KL 5042 just another supplier.
for air assist I use a external homemade version where I can use one of this air brush compressor from harborfreight
instaed a big compressor with extra drying filter and the loud noice.
greetings
walt

Guys, this is what we bought:

DSP:
1x http://www.lightobject.com/2012-Commerc ... -P321.aspx

24V power supply:
1x http://www.lightobject.com/DC-24V-5A-Sw ... -P579.aspx

Micro switch for homing:
2x http://www.lightobject.com/Search.aspx?k=limit%20switch

40W power supply
1x http://www.lightobject.com/40W-PWM-CO2- ... y-P71.aspx

Current meter:
1x http://www.lightobject.com/3-digit-Mini ... -P457.aspx

5V power module for the current meter
1x http://www.lightobject.com/LM2576-High- ... -P549.aspx


Stepping motor driver (you pick one of two kind below)

2x http://www.lightobject.com/Mini-2-Phase ... -P650.aspx (better)

Better focus lens (18mm)
http://www.lightobject.com/High-quality ... -P670.aspx

Air-assisted laser head:
http://www.lightobject.com/1820mm-Laser ... -P701.aspx

Problems:

laser doesn't work when pushing laser button on the display
lasercad software on this forum is very old (version 4.47 instead of laserCad 5.95), where do we get the latest version? We tried to search for this on the net everywhere.

Also, we do have 2M415 steppers and not KL5042.
Thanks guys!

[pannaus]

Hi Marco,
this is what we bought from you, to upgrade our K40 machine:

http://www.lightobject.com/2012-Commerc ... -P321.aspx
2x Stepping Motor Driver 2M415
http://www.lightobject.com/Mini-2-Phase ... -P650.aspx
1 x 24 Power Supply
http://www.lightobject.com/DC-24V-5A-Sw ... -P579.aspx
1x 40 60W Power Supply
http://www.lightobject.com/40W60W-PWM-C ... y-P72.aspx
1X Current Meter
http://www.lightobject.com/3-digit-Mini ... -P457.aspx
1x 5V Power Regulator
http://www.lightobject.com/LM2576-High- ... -P549.aspx
After many difficulties, although we did quite a few works on electronics, we finally managed to connect everything. The info on your forum are really not easy to follow as they refer to different or older components.

We still have few problems.
The worst is about the power supply. The fan never works (although it does work if connected to batteries), the rest of the components work, the display lights up, motors move, but the fan does not come alive, ever.

We have a problem with the laser test. If the button “laser” is the same as LASERT TEST button on the old K40, then when we push it, nothing happens. If that's the way it's supposed to work, then our power supply is probably broken or malfunctioning, as the “laser” led does not light up. If the laser button has to work via software then it's ok.

Software, could you please so kind to send us a direct link to the latest lasercad? We seem unable to find it.

Also, stepper have an issue too. They make this very high-pitched whistle non stop. We've been suggested to change settings of the stepper via software, but the stepper we have is different from the one they suggested us to change. Can we have the right settings of the M2415 Stepper?
Last issue is about the current meter and the 5v power regulator.
We've connected as shown on the forum one of the blue or green wire to the blue wire that comes back from the laser tube and that has to be connected to the black wire of the è power supply. Then we connected the red wire of the current meter to the DC5V of the DSP. What about the remaining black wire?
This way, the current meter does not power up. What about the 5V regulator? Where does that have to be connected?

The biggest problem is the power supply as we can't understand if there's an issue that prevents only the fan from working , or if the entire thing is malfunctioning, thus, preventing even the laser tube from working

Please reply to each problem individually. We paid good money to buy this and we're not able to use it.
Remember we bought the new 2012 DSP!

Hope to you hear from you as soon as possible.
Thanks

[Tech_Marco]

I'm a little worry as I can see that you're not very familiar with basic electronics. To do the conversion, more or less you need or your buddy must have some basic electronics background. When you asked me where was the black connected to, that really suprised me. A digital meter need power to work. So, you need to power the meter by 5V: Red to (+) and Black to (-). Or, just forgot about this current meter for now. Get your machine working first.

Here is a couple things you may need to pay attention. First of all, you need tell what voltage are you using in your country: AC110V or AC220V.
The power supply fan not working, then check the switch of the back of the power supply as the power supply support 110V and 220V through a SWITCH. If your country is 110V but switch to 220V, that mean it's under power. You can test the power supply without the other component installed. You don't know how to power a laser tube with the power supply connected direct to the laser tube, don't you? If not, check the manual of the power supply I posted in the Manual section. It's ok to power a tube for seconds with full power. Or, just use the Laser Test button to test it.

For the 2M415, try use 1/16 (3200) and I beleived I emailed you about it, didn't I (or some one else)?
Set current to 0.6A for K40 machine.

Motor sounds high pitch because you didn't have a proper setting on the pulse distance setting (um). Walt already told people many times how to do it here. Anyway, try this two number: 6.5 or 1.75. At least that will make it work even though the scale may not be right. But it should get the motor to run and you can fine tune it (follow Walt's post)

You need to do touble shooting step by step. If there are more than one problem, then test each parts one by one other than putting all together and get your self in a endless loop.



Marco

[pannaus]

I'm a little worry as I can see that you're not very familiar with basic electronics. To do the conversion, more or less you need or your buddy must have some basic electronics background. When you asked me where was the black connected to, that really suprised me. A digital meter need power to work. So, you need to power the meter by 5V: Red to (+) and Black to (-). Or, just forgot about this current meter for now. Get your machine working first.

Ok, this is now done.

Here is a couple things you may need to pay attention. First of all, you need tell what voltage are you using in your country: AC110V or AC220V.
The power supply fan not working, then check the switch of the back of the power supply as the power supply support 110V and 220V through a SWITCH. If your country is 110V but switch to 220V, that mean it's under power. You can test the power supply without the other component installed. You don't know how to power a laser tube with the power supply connected direct to the laser tube, don't you? If not, check the manual of the power supply I posted in the Manual section. It's ok to power a tube for seconds with full power. Or, just use the Laser Test button to test it.
.

It's 220V and the power supply swith shows: 220.
The manual you're talking about...where is it? In the manual section there's no power supply manual man, or at least, under what category is?
The thing is, wouldn't be easier for both of us to just put the direct link, instead of saying: you can find it there?

Doing the other things later on.


What about the DC5V regulator?
What do we have to do with that?

Thanks

[waltfl]

he hey my friend
its getting enoying now. you need to do a bit of legwork your self. the DSP and other parts for the convertion is not for somebody who think he orders the parts and thats it
.this is not a DIY like the one what you buy in a hoby store.
we all like to help here but the way how you comunicate is close to rude.
greetings
walt

I'm a little worry as I can see that you're not very familiar with basic electronics. To do the conversion, more or less you need or your buddy must have some basic electronics background. When you asked me where was the black connected to, that really suprised me. A digital meter need power to work. So, you need to power the meter by 5V: Red to (+) and Black to (-). Or, just forgot about this current meter for now. Get your machine working first.

Ok, this is now done.

Here is a couple things you may need to pay attention. First of all, you need tell what voltage are you using in your country: AC110V or AC220V.
The power supply fan not working, then check the switch of the back of the power supply as the power supply support 110V and 220V through a SWITCH. If your country is 110V but switch to 220V, that mean it's under power. You can test the power supply without the other component installed. You don't know how to power a laser tube with the power supply connected direct to the laser tube, don't you? If not, check the manual of the power supply I posted in the Manual section. It's ok to power a tube for seconds with full power. Or, just use the Laser Test button to test it.
.

It's 220V and the power supply swith shows: 220.
The manual you're talking about...where is it? In the manual section there's no power supply manual man, or at least, under what category is?
The thing is, wouldn't be easier for both of us to just put the direct link, instead of saying: you can find it there?

Doing the other things later on.


What about the DC5V regulator?
What do we have to do with that?

Thanks

[pannaus]

he hey my friend
its getting enoying now. you need to do a bit of legwork your self. the DSP and other parts for the convertion is not for somebody who think he orders the parts and thats it
.this is not a DIY like the one what you buy in a hoby store.
we all like to help here but the way how you comunicate is close to rude.
greetings
walt

Walt.
We spent 800+ USD to buy this stuff.
We were told we needed to have BASIC electronic knowledge which we do have.
Power supply cannot be tested alone, since it has a "input" check. And if there's nothing coming back, it will not power up (just like those of the computers).

Now, if it's supposed to be testing alone, then our power supply came in with issues.
Also, diagrams and manuals are those of parts that are OLD.

We bought things for which there are no specific manuals.
Why is this rude? You guys keep behaving like everybody has to have a very advanced knowledge of this stuff, but that's not the case.
We are just asking for help, but it looks like you give a lot of info for granted.

Trust me , we are DIY and this is getting really frustrating, that's why my words sound rude.

[Tech_Marco]

Now, if it's supposed to be testing alone, then our power supply came in with issues.
Also, diagrams and manuals are those of parts that are OLD.

We bought things for which there are no specific manuals.
Why is this rude? You guys keep behaving like everybody has to have a very advanced knowledge of this stuff, but that's not the case.
We are just asking for help, but it looks like you give a lot of info for granted.

Trust me , we are DIY and this is getting really frustrating, that's why my words sound rude.

It's not the true. I have all the latest software, patch, and manual posted there. I just removed it last week, after weeks of your purchase. Plus, I have mentioned, I will send it per email for now. It doesn't has to have advanced knowledge to do the conversion but BASIC eletronics knowleged is assumbed. Just like if you're buying parts to convert your Pontiac Fireo for convering it to Lamborghini, you do need need some mechanic skill and patience to do so. Doing DIY is supposed fun and even doing 'lego' take time. If you can finish in a few minutes, what fun is that. Also, nobody here rude to you. See Walt, he has not getting paid but spent a lot of time with you. It's just that you're getting frustrated but we shouldn't take the blame. FYI, when I tested the PWM function on Mach3, yes just ofr one function and I spent 4 day and nights in my lab!! For the conversion of the TB6560 to be laser capability, it took me 4 days to test each pin output of a board. What helped me to complete the task? The answer is "nobody". I was on my own, testing all 'combination' of the logic. Anyother old story: I wanted to learn OrCad for PCB as I was crazy about it. I got some 'left over' module and without original doc but two pages of instruction sheet from a student. It took me 6 months for testing and found out how to covert schmeatic diagram to PCB on OrCad!! Yes, SIX big Months, day ater day, night after night and it keep showing me "error....error...." And nobody help, seriouily, "zero" help! But I have faith and never giving up things easy. Finally, a last try of combination worked out. It's "partlist" that need to be defined before I could do the translation. Bingo! I it's hard to use a few words to express my emotion at that momennt and the happiness was hard to descriped.

To be honest, I don't see how hard is to do the converstion.
1) 4 wires for a limit switch (2 for X, and 2 for Y) to the DSP limit control: Gnd and X- and Y-
2) 3 wires from the power supply (PWM, TTL, GND) to the controller power control
3) 2 wires to power the DSP by DC12V~32V
4) 3 wires per X step motor: +5V, DIR- , PUL-

That's all you need to do!


Marco

[pannaus]

Marco,
that's what we do at our shop:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SWf3RKCD ... el&list=UL

Also, this is what I do:

http://sphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-a ... 7900_n.jpg

So trust me. We do know hard work and DIY stuff.
It's not like we're spoiled and we want stuff all ready to go, without working on it first.

I received your email and well..I am very sorry to say that the OS upgrade of the display returns errors when trying to upgrade.
But that's a minor problem.


Now, what we really need to know is this.
The Power supply is our biggest concern. How do we know it's not broken? THe laser does not fire, the laser led does not light up and the fan doesn't run.

How can we fix this?
Thanks man.